After a 10 month break, AMFI’s fashion label iNDiViDUALS is back and ready to change the industry.

 

Amsterdam based label iNDiViDUALS has returned with a future-thinking format to challenge the traditional fashion system. After close analysis of the current industry standards, the brand now works to a formula that both impacts the end product, and the student’s ways of working.

iNDiViDUALS, which used to highlight every season with a complete catwalk show, including press and influencers seated front row, is now focusing on delivering one single product instead of 30 looks. Each semester, the product will be a creation that culminates from in-depth research and development and aims to be as sustainable and transparent as possible.

 

During every season, or ‘Generation’, 3rd and 4th year students from all AMFI departments -10 fashion designers, 10 management and 10 branding students - work together to continue the label’s legacy. The course provides students with an unmatched experience for endeavours post-graduation.

“Nobody knows what the future will look like, but all acknowledge that the fashion industry needs to change if it is to sustain at all”, says Charlotte Lokin, head of iNDiViDUALS. “By reconstructing iNDiViDUALS we hope to come up with a reality school format that allows for questioning, exploring and challenging current industry standards as well as develop new takes on what the fashion industry could be. New perspectives and new approaches are needed, and iNDiViDUALS hopes to be the fertile ground necessary for growing change makers.”

Generation25 wants to make a creative statement that will reflect this new direction. Our goal is to assess the building blocks of the industry and place iNDiViDUALS as its finest blueprint. There are many flaws within the industry. iNDiViDUALS is here to change things up.

 

FROM AN INDUSTRY PERSPECTIVE TO A PERSPECTIVE ON THE INDUSTRY.

 

 

How to Re-Wax your bucket hat

Our bucket hat is pre-treated with beeswax, which makes the hat water-repellent, but the wax needs to be maintained after a regular use. 

This is very easy, and you can do it at home. 

Here are the steps on how to do it: 

  1. Clean and prep the bucket hat. 

  2. Apply the wax. Take a block of beeswax and rub it over the fabric with long and even strokes, so that a thin, smooth layer remains.

  3. Heat the applied wax. Use an iron or hair dryer on the lowest setting to regulate the heat and to melt the wax in the fabric. 

  4. Dry and wipe. 

 

You can do it twice a year or more if needed.

A perfect scenario where the production process runs smoothly. 

A reality where multiple production errors occurred. 

1) Sell 50 bucket hats

1) 39 bucket hats approved for sale after quality check


 

2) Minimal waste pattern

 

2) Minimal waste attempt was not followed by facility 


 

3) Staying within the budget

3) Unable to cover the production cost 

 

4) The fabric suits the product

 

4) The fabric choice is not ideal for the execution of the product 

5) Easily adjusting the pattern to a different size 

5) The fit of the adjusted size did not turn out as expected

 

6) Receiving two bucket hats that are true to size

6) The S/M bucket hats measurements differ from set size

 

7) The factory is able to produce a bucket hat 

7) The factory is not specialized in making hats

 

8) Sustainable printing of high quality on organic cotton labels

8) The sustainable dye faded on the care label due to textured fabric

After the quality check, there are 3 groups: A, B and F. 

 

Hats that align with the quality of iNDiViDUALS and are going to be sold for the full price.

 

price: 49e  

amount: 12 pieces

 

Hats that have minor mistakes but are still wearable, these are going to be sold for a lower price.

 

price: 25-35e , people can decide how much they want to pay for a product in a range from 25 to 35 Euros

amount: 27pieces

 

Canceled bucket hats that don’t align with the quality iNiViDUALS wants to reach in its products. 

 

not being for sale

amount: 11 pieces

 

These are the 5 most defective products:

 

Bucket hat number 2/50

Size: s/m

 

- fit is extremely bulky, due to wrong treatment of the fabric

- open seams (see center front) 

- finishings are not clean (loose threads) 

- pressed seams are visible because the bee wax was treated with the wrong tool 

- pleat in tunnel construction 

Bucket hat number 10/50

Size: s/m

 

- the label is not centered in the front (between opening between the tunnels)  

Bucket hat number 16/50

size: s/m

 

- open seams between panels, because of high tension in the machine 

- the lining is poorly stitched 

- fit is bulky, due to wrong treatment of the fabric

- disrespect of the seam allowance (front is lifted) 

- this model appears smaller than the regular s/m size 

 

Bucket hat number 40/50

Size: m/l

 

- extremely slanted seams and fabric on the left side 

- not finished neatly at the tunnel 

- pleated seam at the top, due to slanted seam 

 

Bucket hat number 50/50

Size: m/l

 

- the left side is 7 mm shorter than the right side (measured under the tunnel opening) 

- tunnel construction is not done neatly 

 

Bucket hat number 10/50

Size: s/m

 

- the label is not centered in the front (between opening between the tunnels) 

Outer layer + Strings

 

Name: ET_V008_black

Fabrics: Beeswaxed medium twill

Composition: 100% organic cotton + beeswax

Supplier: Ecological Textiles, the Netherlands

Origin: Turkey

Certification: GOTS certified cotton

Color: black

Price per m2: 22,25e

Order: 15 m

Price per bucket hat: 6,11e

 

Lining

 

Name: 650002

Fabrics: Canvas zwart

Composition:100% organic cotton

Supplier: Boweevil, the Netherlands

Origin: Turkey

Certification: GOTS certified cotton

Color: black

Price per m2: 10,70e

Order: 15 m

Price per bucket hat: 9,24e

 

Label:

 

Fabric: reprinted stock labels

Composition: 100% cotton

Colour: White

Printing technique: Sublimation print

Printing location: Mauritskade 11, 1091 GC Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Total label price: 10e

Label price per bucket hat: 0,20e

 

Stitching thread:

Art. no. : 1159

Colour: black 0038

Composition: 100% polyester

Supplier: Andrevo

Size: 80

Brand: Amann group

Company origin: Germany

Certification: STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, European Chemicals Regulation REACH

 

Manufacturer: 

 

Name: A-rola bv

Location: Jan Rebelstraat 2, 1069 CB Amsterdam, the Netherlands

CMT per bucket hat: 35,00e

CMT per 50 bucket hats: 1750e

1 bucket hat: 1,1666 hour

50 bucket hats: 58,33 hours