Starting the Academic year, 2019/2020 AMFI launched the AMFI SWEATER PROJECT. Each new student at AMFI will be offered a sweatshirt, and by accepting that garment, the student commits to mapping his or her four years of AMFI study on that jumper.
The AMFI SWEATER is produced by iNDiViDUALS, AMFI’s in-house fashion studio and reality-school course. The annual order provides the students with a long-term production order, which in turn allows for researching and practising slow fashion.
iNDiVIDUALS will regularly share parts of that process to provide insight into their decision making.
#AMFISWEATER
With the SWEATER PROJECT AMFI underpins the importance of tactility
to increase awareness of the physical nature of the wearable. The sweater
serves as a concrete and tangible means to start the conversation and assess
sustainable impact through experiment and experience.
TRANSPARENCY REPORTREGARDING FABRIC CHOICE
Regarding fabric choice i26 of iNDiViDUALS, is responsible for the production of the first run of sweatshirts chose a 100% organic cotton material.
The specific fabric selection was based on various fabric tests conducted by i24 and i25
fabric tests by i24 of iNDiViDUALS
-
colourfastness to hot pressing/ironing
-
abrasion resistance of fabrics – ISO 12947 Martindale
-
dimensional Stability to Laundering/Drying
-
shrinkage
ALL TEST RESULTS REMAINED WITHIN THE ACCEPTED CRITERIA
fabric tests by i25 of iNDiViDUALS
-
colourfastness to rubbing ISO 105 X 12 – Crockmeter
-
colourfastness to hot pressing/ironing ISO 105- X11
-
abrasion resistance of fabrics – ISO 12947 Martindale
-
colourfastness to washing ISO 105-C06 40/60 degrees
-
crease recovery ISO 9867 – Wrinkle recovery tester
-
Martindale Pilling test ISO 12945 - 2
Despite satisfying fabric tests conducted
by iNDiViDUALS, it appears that when washing according to the guidelines on
the care label, the AMFI SWEATER shrinks more than the allowable percentage.
iNDiViDUALS PLAN OF ACTION
Addtional tests by i27 of iNDiViDUALS
When washed on 40 degrees the shrinkages in percentages were:
-
warp 1: 1,9%
-
warp 2: 2-3%
-
weft 1: 3,9%
-
weft 2: 4%
Proving that the allowed shrinkage of 5%, most unfortunately is exceeded.
i27 confronted the Dutch supplier with the results, who in turn contacted the Turkish producer. The producer claims that his test results meet the requirements. The supplier takes the matter very seriously and is currently conducting new tests within their facilities. iNDiViDUALS will report the outcome of these tests as soon as possible.
As disappointing as this set-back is, it does tap into the exact nature of the AMFI SWEATER PROJECT which is about about reconnecting with your by wear and tear affected garment.
So, apart from the iNDiViDUALS advice to wash the AMFI ’19 SWEATER as little and cold as possible, we recommend to restore appreciation through embroidery applications that are meaningful, unique, hand-governed and purposeful.
#AMFISWEATER
On request FABRIC MANIPULATION/EMBROIDERY workshops are give on Friday afternoons at AMFI. Please see BrightSpace as well as the printed announcements in your workrooms for more information.
For more information e-mail Charlotte Lokin - c.t.e.l.lokin@hva.nl
#AMFISWEATER
#AMFISWEATER
#AMFISWEATER
CREDITS
concept and textile design AMFI SWEATER PROJECT: Charlotte Lokin _ fashion photography: Marc Deurloo
creative production fashion shoot: Josephine Aymar, Cara Brock
models*: Filip Bejek, Vatiswa Klevering, Noemi Tombeur, Daam Zuurhout
* All students at AMFI - Amsterdam Fashion Institute, Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences
Contact
iNDiViDUALS believes in cooperation and cocreations.
We are very interested in other parties to inspire our new narrative.
Feel free to contact us.
iNDiViDUALS
Mauritskade 11
1091 GC Amsterdam
The Netherlands
