CONCEPT

Iconic

The Overall appeared during the 18th century in the US and was made to protect the wearer’s clothing worn underneath. The original function evolved overtime, but never lost its true meaning. While protecting us from external factors, the Overall has gained statement power when adopted by women, developed into multifunctional designs and has now found its way back to fashion as casualwear clothing. What makes a garment unique, is the message you want to convey while wearing. What used to be a distinction between job roles, is now a personal approach to society. We do not get dirty so much while working anymore, but we do need a new form of protection with global warming happening. Adaptability becomes the key to sustainability and multifunctional garments could be the solution to achieve it. We translated what inspired us from the Overall into three values: Wearable statement, Environmental protection and Durable modularity.

We believe a mind shift in consumption behaviour will reduce the need of packaging and the resulting waste

We show the effects through informative yet confronting statements

Industry

We are going to replace the quantity of packaging by offering quality items that adapt to everyone's personal needs. If we continue the way we are consuming plastic packaging as short term solutions, we will create an error in future consumption and the environment. Our future scenarios (drought, flood and migration) show consequences of the system error of packaging overload. We need to shift the consumer's mind to reduce the need of packaging by showing a better alternative.

 

DESIGN

Design Thinking

GENERATION26 acknowledges that we all have been focused on technology and become so out of touch with the environment, that we have forgotten the impact it has on our future. Global warming is happening and we cannot avoid it, nor can we go back in time. We can adjust our behaviours and consumption, for example by using technology to our advantage, in order to be able to adapt to what the future will hold. We are focusing on three future scenarios which form the base for our iconic style.

Scenario's

Scenario 1: Drought

 

Mind your step! There are some cracks in the ground. I can see that the sweat is already dripping off your face. It is hot in here, I know, but you will get used to it, because I also had to. It all started around 2035. There were a lot of signs, but most of the people did not want to see it. We have had quite some outspoken political movements not believing in the crisis of climate change. Unfortunately we have to live with the consequences now. 

Thanks to the modern Mars environment, we are able to go to mars a few times a year and collect our water for the rest of the year. Technology has evolved over the years, which resulted in each family having their own water refreshing system to provide us water as clean as possible. But it is not really sanitary of course. Though we lost our real nature, we did not lose our typical Dutch attitude. Complaining is what we do best, but we also have exciting things to look forward to. 

If you think you can get tanned, than you are wrong. We are exposed to the sun every day, but thanks to my Overall I will not get sunburned. Take a sip, do not forget to drink. Since my clothing is very functional I will luckily never forget to bring my water. Because of my overall I am able to adapt to these changes that were once just predictionsios, but are now my reality. 

Scenario 2: Floods

 

That umbrella is not going to protect you from the storm that is yet to come, so please come inside. I do have an overall for you to wear which will protect you and becomes a lifevest. I hope you are not seasick, this house is anchored to the ground but with this weather is about to shake things up. As the river is flowing and the houses are floating, I will catch up with you. We used to live in a society where flying to every country was as naturally as driving to the supermarket.  Enjoying the sun in Spain, having lunch in Italy and back for an important press event in Paris; #lifegoals as they called it. While we were living our life to the fullest, we did not think about the impact it was going to have on the environment. On the positive side, yes we try to not only complain, you do not have to go on vacation anymore since our house became our floating home.

Scenario 3: Migration

 

How much should I worry about climate change effecting me directly? Because I haven’t been to Australia. I haven’t been to the South Pole, and I haven’t been to the North Pole. I want to see the polar,  before there are no polar bears, if everything they say about global warming is true though. 

Back in the days, people have been forced to flee their homes due to civil wars, poverty and hunger, but the growing number of extreme climate change, caused by global warming, are now increasingly contributing to migration. Our community gets more vulnerable by the day. We do not have that much time, so lets walk and talk. Luckily the bags are not that heavy since our overall provides us with pockets for only our necessary stuff. Our lives have become pretty modular and we have to adapt to different weather conditions. Which makes us travel a lot, by foot. We get to know a lot of interesting people, whom have become as close as family. There is a really bad internet connection, so we are obligated to have real conversations instead of hiding behind our screens. What would have happened if we did this 30 years ago? Would we have noticed about what the future was going to hold. Well, at least your able to see the North Pole now, but do hurry because by the time you get there, it will probably be melted.

Process

We believe in responsibility and honesty in our creations. that is why we will show you our process behind the scenes.

We are working on a collection inspired by the overall. The original function of the overall evolved overtime, but never lost it’s true meaning. While protecting us from external factors, the overall has gained statement power because of it’s multifunctional design. For us, the garment gained a new form of protection. Since climate change is the reality that is beginning to overtake us, adaptability becomes the key to sustainability and multifunctional garments could be the solution to achieve it.

 

COLLABORATION

Need of change - It is not just a bag

Fashion Institute meets Supermarket

Family-run supermarket chain Jumbo approached iNDiViDUALS, an in-House Fashion Label initiated by AMFI – Amsterdam Fashion Institute, to develop a sustainable bag that adapts to the future and the wearer’s needs.

iNDiViDUALS is a united group of creative minds from the design, management and branding departments of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. Each semester a new generation is born and exists out of ambitious individuals who get the opportunity to advance their skills and knowledge within the industry. By fusing strengths and questioning every aspect of the fashion supply chain, the collaboration aims to be a blueprint for the industry.

For this assignment, together with the entire team, JUMBO and INDIVIDUALS  first questioned the consumer to find out what difficulties they experienced, to which we can respond. As a starting point we have highlighted what the consumer wants and needs and how to meet these needs through design. 

‘’Plastic in all forms – straw, bottles, packaging, bags, etc – are all choking our planet’’ - Jerry Brown, Governor of California 

Plastic pollution is one of today’s biggest environmental issues. Leftover plastic, caused by the overload of use of disposableplastic has made us not only depend on it, but also drown in it. Within this collaboration we want to explore the possibilities  for environmentally friendly grocery bags, hoping to reduce the plastic pollution.  

“We know how to pick up garbage. Anyone can do it. We know how to dispose of it. We know how to recycle.” - Ted Siegler, a Vermont resource economist

JUMBO is one of the biggest leaders within the supermarket industry in The Netherlands, that wants to take a step towards making sustainable bags. A step that other chains can not ignore. Ideally, before the ocean turns into a soup of plastic.

We, at iNDiViDUALS, hope that all supermarket chains will change the unnecessary use of packaging in general. Our bananas will make it to the kitchen even if it is not wrapped in plastic. Because if only bananas had natural biodegradable packaging of their own; maybe some sort of peelable skin, perhaps.

Collaboration

Making of

 

REALISED

In-House Experiment

During our In-House Experiment we showcase a selection of the work developed over the past 11 weeks, which resulted in the creation of the GENERATION26 Bag and Overalls. 

 

Most events take the liberty of making decisions for you.

This time you are an important part of the decision making process, and therefore the outcome lies in your hands. Through our interactive experiment, we show you the consequences of your consumption choices and give you the freedom to make conscious decisions. 

We believe in responsibility and honesty in our creations. So we have taken the opportunity to show you how the products are composed and introduced a new pricing strategy:

Basic price which is only the cost price 

Supportive price which is the cost price and a contribution to iNDiViDUALS

Revolutionary price which is the cost price and a donation to Fashion Revolution Netherlands

Holistic price which is the cost price and a the contribution to iNDiViDUALS with a donation to Fashion Revolution Netherlands. 

The goal was to give total insight in to our production and to see what people thought was important. 

For this event we worked together with fashion revolution 

They believe in a fashion industry that values people, the environment, creativity and profit in equal measure. Their mission is to unite people and organisations to work together towards radically changing the way our clothes are sourced, produced and consumed, so that our clothing is made in a safe, clean and fair way.

We believe that collaborating across the whole value chain — from farmer to consumer — is the only way to transform the industry.

 

Find out more about them on: http://fashionrevolution.org

A big thanks to Fashion Revelotion for interactively inspiring all of us. Thanks to Charlie's Natural Sparkling Fruit Drink for providing us with refreshing fruit drinks. All natural, no fake stuff. And thankyou for those who made time to swing by and support our experiment.

In-house experiment

 

Making of video

SUSTAINABILITY

SUSTAINABILITY SHOULD NOT BE AN ACCESSORY, BUT OUR WARDROBE’S SIGNATURE

 

iNDiViDUALS (est. 2006) is a premium, Dutch womenswear brand initiated by AMFI – Amsterdam Fashion Institute. iNDiViDUALS is a combination of third and fourth year students primed to experience real-time fashion industry demands.

 

We, GENERATION26, strive to achieve sustainability as a part of every thought, process and action this semester. We aim to be a blueprint by challenging the fashion industry and challenging the lifestyle choices of people today.  By being a part of the fashion industry, we embrace creativity, but do feel responsible for the consequences of our choices when it comes to our design process.

 

‘’Fashion is not a sector that exists in a vacuum. In fact, the fashion industry is not unlike any other key economic drivers; it is a key component of a global economy’’ - UNITED NATIONS, Oct 23 2017 (IPS)

 

When starting this course one thing was really clear for all of us; the world has become more dirty than ever, and it’s not because we forgot to clean our glasses. We are here to look beyond our own industry in order to explore solutions for the problems threatening our people and planet. Fully aware of the facts, we don’t live in the pink bubble of ignorance.  As ambitious as we are, we know that we can’t change the world’s thinking at once and so have chosen to focus on one Sustainability Development Goal.

GOAL 12, Responsible Consumption and Production.

 

This goal stands for a sustainable infrastructure, providing access to green, decent jobs and services to achieve a better quality of life. It means being responsible about the products you consume and produce, not only as an employee, but also in your behaviour and habits in your private life.

 

 

 

Within the company we focus on creations that last. We reuse, recycle or rent instead of buy. All the factories iNDiViDUALS is working with, are certificated by BSCI. The Business Social Compliance Initiative is an industry-driven movement that aims to monitor and assess workplace standards across the global supply chain. There is growing expectation that companies not only ensure their own businesses are responsible, but that their suppliers are also demonstrating social responsibility. A BSCI audit helps a business monitor its supply chain to ensure that all suppliers are treating workers ethically and legally. Design focuses on a whole life-cycle of the garment through digitalization of the design process. By doing that, the brand is saving energy, water, chemicals and other resources required to make new virgin materials. Sustainable branding is just as important, which is why we focus on reusing trimmings for example. Besides that we print as little as possible.

 

We also believe that cooperation is the key to change. That is why we are working with non-profit organisations, such as Fashion Revolution.  In our communication we aim to educate the customer to widen their knowledge and pop their own pink bubble.

 

MEET THE TEAM

At a time where we stage how we present ourselves, we wanted to create a moment that can not be staged. 15 seconds in front of the camera without any guidelines. Meet Denisa, Chaya and Max at their most unprepared moment.

Lily Clatworthy 

Design Manager

Designing gives the opportunity to re think and question the way we create and do things in our daily life. It is an outlet for new ideas and ways of consuming, and continually aim to enhance or improve on the current situation. Being a design manager gives me the opportunity to encourage a team to build on these ideas of change and development. I am inspired by designers and their respective ideas and ways of thinking. By encouraging and ensuring organisation of a creative team, it allows for these ideas to be translated into physical or conceptual conclusions, which in turn inspires the customers and people who are exposed to the designs. 

Sophia Mulder

Sourcing | Development Manager

Beautiful fabrics with even a nicer background:  I am here to find the best durable and sustainable compositions to elevate the fashion industry to a next level.

Shiraz Zennou

PR | Copywriter

What I have noticed is that social media is not something that everyone would quickly put a lot of effort into. I hope I can inspire this generation, and hopefully the next, on how to use social media as a branding tool and to show how important instagram has become. There are a lot of important subjects that need to be addressed, such as the effects of global warming. This medium really gives you a voice and the opportunity to make people more aware and encourage change. 

Maud Stet

Corporate + CR Brander / VR & Digital - Presentation Developer

Sustainability is something that always sparked my interest. I’m excited to inspire the team in being more aware as an individual, and I’m also looking forward to finding ways how I can implement this in the iNDiViDUALS company. As a Corporate Brander, I go from creating ideas and projects myself to inspire others I work with. It's not always easy, but well life isn’t and I like the challenge. As if this all isn’t enough, I’m also specializing in VR and Digital development.

Ekaterina Soboleva

Material Researcher| Head Designer 

Details matter, especially they matter in executing weird ideas. Being a material researcher and a head designer allows me to explore the potential ways of finding new creative solutions for the brand. Besides my ideas, vision of others within iNDiViDUALS is important for me. I like taking into consideration the ideas of others, link them together, refine, and sculpt translating the coherency into our final products. 

Viktória Dóra Asztalos

Merchandise | Finance manager

 

The field of merchandising is where business meets fashion. It’s a chance to be creative and analytical at the same time. The combination of the two job roles requires adding value that is key to decision making and strategic planning. While I aim at ensuring an overall efficiency, my main focus is on reaching the primary goal of the brand: to be a blueprint for the industry.

Charlotte Wagelaar

Brand manager

Managing a creative team is hard but also very rewarding. Seeing your team work and guide them to a creative process is inspiring. Because the industry is changing so fast, we as a team need to be one step ahead. The brand manager is a valuable role because branders as a group can endlessly finalize a project. They need a person who plans, has a clear overview, can be strict and is not scared to make decisions. I understand their language so I create a safe space were there can express the most creative ideas. 

Joep van der Zalm

Graphic and print media designer 

People are living in a reality that does not exist and are addicted to all the stimulus. We shouldn’t make things prettier than they already are. I want to celebrate the use of design as a support of knowledge. 

Giulia Bartolomeo

Style and Collection Researcher|Visual Communication Designer

How many looks are there in our collection? What types of garment? Can we think of a collection in an innovative way? As a Style and Collection Researcher, I explore the way the structure of our collection can really tie up with the sustainable vision that is at the core of iNDiViDUALS. At the same time, I make sure that such structure will connect with our concept and get it across as strong as possible. 

Images can speak to us in ways that words sometimes fail to describe. Colors, shapes, and textures resonate with us on an intuitive and emotional level. But it is through driven experimentation and analysis that we can use visual to create new meaning. As the Visual Communication Designer, it is my goal to provide the Design team with exciting imagery, as well as curate our inspiration boards, presentations and moodboards daily, so we can communicate our vision to Branders and Managers in an inspiring, yet clear way. 

Kristy van Dijk

Event brander 

 

At an event everything falls into place. It is the moment where all our hard work comes together. As an Event Brander I want to make sure to present our process as a team in a way that everyone can be proud of their own work. 

Joep van der Zalm

Graphic and print media designer 

People are living in a reality that does not exist and are addicted to all the stimulus. We shouldn’t make things prettier than they already are. I want to celebrate the use of design as a support of knowledge. 

Charmaé  Pattipeilohij

Visual Brander

As visual brander it is my job to translate the vision and words of iNDiViDUALS. Visuals do have a huge influence on the identity of the brand. Therefore I am trying my best to innovate on visualizing our ideas to inspire others.

Naomi Opheij

Stylist | Casting Director | Accessories designer

Styling is the essence of the brand. It aspires this imaginated world where the consumer longs to be in.

Jeanne Laval

Production Brander 

I truly believe that production is the main point of improvement within the fashion industry and I’m hoping to have an impact towards its evolution. If I look at the way we consume, it is closer to fast-food than fine dining and this has to change. Purpose should be our main focus. We need to choose quality over quantity and think about the long term consequences instead of short term satisfaction. Let’s stop thinking as individuals and start creating for a community!

Aylin Demirel

Print Designer

As a print designer I find my inspiration in everything that most people simply overlook. By manipulating this, I create prints to inspire.

Sanne Lejeune

Sales | Marketing Manager | General Manager

Due to the power of social media, trends are now often established by consumers rather than fashion retailers and magazines. As a result, consumer preferences are changing rapidly, and it’s becoming increasingly important to respond to their shifting demands. By moving towards an on-demand model we can respond to these demands, while at the same time establishing a more sustainable production cycle. Small batch production can help us move production closer and avoid the creation of stock. I believe that by achieving an on-demand production model, we can be an example for the overproducing fashion industry.

Dojanicia Juan Pedro

Product brander | VR and Digital presentation developer

 

Keeping sustainability and zero waste in mind when designing is something that brands try to use in their products over the past years. Branding seems to be an aspect that gets forgotten sometimes during the process. When brands do use sustainability in branding, you only see it by the use of sustainable material. Nowadays branding is seen as a non functional addition with aesthetic purposes and selling information, that will be cut off after the purchase. 

 

As a product brander you have the opportunity to give extra purpose to a garment. Branding will gain a much bigger meaning, by treating branding like it is a full item on its own, rather than an addition to the garment. By giving the branding of a garment a second life or function, we can inspire the consumer to not dispose, but to continue our sustainable vision.

Max Hoogsteden

Allround Manager

As an Allround Manager, I’m involved in every part of the company, make sure the whole flow of the company goes well and always seeking for improvement. Thinking ahead and ensure all the decisions that are made are well aligned within the strategy of the brand. Every day is different and you never know what you jump into.

Denisa Fagulova

CR/Innovation Designer |CR Design Representative |Product Developer 

I am a sustainable believer, hoping that everyone can take action to live more environmentally friendly and, in that way, minimize one ́s impact on our planet. It is a fact, that the fashion industry is the second most polluting one in the world, I joined it with the aim for a change.

Chaya Ramdoelare-Panday

Production |Buying | Sourcing Manager

When I started working at iNDiViDUALS, I needed to choose what job role fits me best. I am exploring what gets me excited in combination with what I’m good at. I get inspired by everybody in the  iNDiViDUALS team and I get new insights all the time. When I think about the fashion industry right now, it's all about over producing and over consuming. Within iNDiViDUALS I want to address this problem by finding a way to produce on demand to make sustainable production a norm. My goal in life is to inspire people and by working here I feel like this goal is becoming more concrete.

 

 

How to Re-Wax your bucket hat

Our bucket hat is pre-treated with beeswax, which makes the hat water-repellent, but the wax needs to be maintained after a regular use. 

This is very easy, and you can do it at home. 

Here are the steps on how to do it: 

  1. Clean and prep the bucket hat. 

  2. Apply the wax. Take a block of beeswax and rub it over the fabric with long and even strokes, so that a thin, smooth layer remains.

  3. Heat the applied wax. Use an iron or hair dryer on the lowest setting to regulate the heat and to melt the wax in the fabric. 

  4. Dry and wipe. 

 

You can do it twice a year or more if needed.

A perfect scenario where the production process runs smoothly. 

A reality where multiple production errors occurred. 

1) Sell 50 bucket hats

1) 39 bucket hats approved for sale after quality check


 

2) Minimal waste pattern

 

2) Minimal waste attempt was not followed by facility 


 

3) Staying within the budget

3) Unable to cover the production cost 

 

4) The fabric suits the product

 

4) The fabric choice is not ideal for the execution of the product 

5) Easily adjusting the pattern to a different size 

5) The fit of the adjusted size did not turn out as expected

 

6) Receiving two bucket hats that are true to size

6) The S/M bucket hats measurements differ from set size

 

7) The factory is able to produce a bucket hat 

7) The factory is not specialized in making hats

 

8) Sustainable printing of high quality on organic cotton labels

8) The sustainable dye faded on the care label due to textured fabric

After the quality check, there are 3 groups: A, B and F. 

 

Hats that align with the quality of iNDiViDUALS and are going to be sold for the full price.

 

price: 49e  

amount: 12 pieces

 

Hats that have minor mistakes but are still wearable, these are going to be sold for a lower price.

 

price: 25-35e , people can decide how much they want to pay for a product in a range from 25 to 35 Euros

amount: 27pieces

 

Canceled bucket hats that don’t align with the quality iNiViDUALS wants to reach in its products. 

 

not being for sale

amount: 11 pieces

 

These are the 5 most defective products:

 

Bucket hat number 2/50

Size: s/m

 

- fit is extremely bulky, due to wrong treatment of the fabric

- open seams (see center front) 

- finishings are not clean (loose threads) 

- pressed seams are visible because the bee wax was treated with the wrong tool 

- pleat in tunnel construction 

Bucket hat number 10/50

Size: s/m

 

- the label is not centered in the front (between opening between the tunnels)  

Bucket hat number 16/50

size: s/m

 

- open seams between panels, because of high tension in the machine 

- the lining is poorly stitched 

- fit is bulky, due to wrong treatment of the fabric

- disrespect of the seam allowance (front is lifted) 

- this model appears smaller than the regular s/m size 

 

Bucket hat number 40/50

Size: m/l

 

- extremely slanted seams and fabric on the left side 

- not finished neatly at the tunnel 

- pleated seam at the top, due to slanted seam 

 

Bucket hat number 50/50

Size: m/l

 

- the left side is 7 mm shorter than the right side (measured under the tunnel opening) 

- tunnel construction is not done neatly 

 

Bucket hat number 10/50

Size: s/m

 

- the label is not centered in the front (between opening between the tunnels) 

Outer layer + Strings

 

Name: ET_V008_black

Fabrics: Beeswaxed medium twill

Composition: 100% organic cotton + beeswax

Supplier: Ecological Textiles, the Netherlands

Origin: Turkey

Certification: GOTS certified cotton

Color: black

Price per m2: 22,25e

Order: 15 m

Price per bucket hat: 6,11e

 

Lining

 

Name: 650002

Fabrics: Canvas zwart

Composition:100% organic cotton

Supplier: Boweevil, the Netherlands

Origin: Turkey

Certification: GOTS certified cotton

Color: black

Price per m2: 10,70e

Order: 15 m

Price per bucket hat: 9,24e

 

Label:

 

Fabric: reprinted stock labels

Composition: 100% cotton

Colour: White

Printing technique: Sublimation print

Printing location: Mauritskade 11, 1091 GC Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Total label price: 10e

Label price per bucket hat: 0,20e

 

Stitching thread:

Art. no. : 1159

Colour: black 0038

Composition: 100% polyester

Supplier: Andrevo

Size: 80

Brand: Amann group

Company origin: Germany

Certification: STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, European Chemicals Regulation REACH

 

Manufacturer: 

 

Name: A-rola bv

Location: Jan Rebelstraat 2, 1069 CB Amsterdam, the Netherlands

CMT per bucket hat: 35,00e

CMT per 50 bucket hats: 1750e

1 bucket hat: 1,1666 hour

50 bucket hats: 58,33 hours